Île aux Cygnes: A Quarter Mile of Paradise

Don’t ask me how to pronounce it.

Just meet me there.

Beyond the Eiffel Tower, rising out of the River Seine like the spine of some  mythical sea serpent, Île aux Cygnes is a tree-lined Paradise accessible only by foot. Banded by three bridges and terminating in the Parisian Statue of Liberty, I’m glad they put this thing between my flat and university as it hosts my favorite walk in Paris.


C’est magnifique.

Don’t get me wrong, Champs-Élysées is majestic, Champ de Mars wondrous, and Rue de la Roquette unforgettable, but while the architecture of Paris is exquisitely beautiful there’s something about being tucked into this epidermal artery that makes you beam with life. It’s an intimate and beautiful strip from which you can look up and only see a canopy of green, but feel the grand avenues beckoning across the water.

From the Eiffel Tower, you head west down the river bank to find this quarter mile paradise. I discovered it by accident — it’s easy to miss.  Pont Bir-Hakeim, a bridge you may know as the one from Inception where Ellen Page’s character begins to manipulate in-dream physics, immediately caught my eye because I watched the movie on the plane to Charles de Gaulle airport.


I can’t look through that looking glass portal of studded steel columns without quoting “We create and perceive our world simultaneously.” Stupid profound Leonardo DiCaprio.

So one day I was walking back to my flat in the far west of Paris from my school in the Latin Quarter and figured I had to cross a bridge somewhere because I lived on the right bank and Sciences Po sits on the left bank. Stumbling across the Inception bridge was pretty cool, but you walk halfway across it and realize you’ve discovered the only way to access Île aux Cygnes. A small stone stairway leads down from the bridge onto the island and as soon as you step foot on the paved path, it feels different.

The color palette is different, it smells different (and if you’ve smelled Paris, “different” is good), it’s a slice of nature tucked into the water, tucked into the city. The trees line the walkway and sunlight percolates through the dense kaleidoscope of leaves overhead. Meanwhile, to the left and to the right, you can see the water sparkling unusually nicely. Park benches are interspersed throughout the strip and it passes under the stone arch of a bridge you can’t walk on. For every lone fisherman whom I suspect doesn’t expect to catch anything and is just enjoying the scenery, expect three couples being very French with each other. You deal with it.


It really looks like that with the sun through the trees. (Photo credit: Bonjour Paris)

Walking through is a unique Paris experience. It’s very pretty, but not in the way you usually think of Paris with the fancy buildings and glowing lights. The glow here is visceral, ethereal. I wished it went on for miles. Where else can you walk through a tree-lined path like this surrounded by water on either side? With the city folding out from the water’s edge all around. That’s the kicker. Knowing you’re in the middle of a river. It’s like you’re on a forresty barge floating downstream. It feels like you’re traipsing across the tree-lined deck of some fantasy boat. It’s a delight.


And you get to the end of the island and there’s this. Pretty cool.

I really enjoyed having Île aux Cygnes as pretty much the midpoint between my apartment and school. It would take me over an hour to walk the entire distance, but I’d do it in large part to get to saunter through here, never less amazed at how pretty and enchanting it is. Almost dreamlike. My favorite walk in Paris!

If you’re in the City of Lights, don’t miss it! I know vacation itineraries are tight, but if you slice this amazing detour out of your metro route, it’ll only add about 15 minutes to your travel time. And very much worth it. Enjoy a baguette on one of those benches if you have the time to do so. Or else, just promenade through and enjoy.

Au revoir

Le 2012 French Presidential Election and Marine Le Pen

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Marine Le Pen received nearly 18% of the first round vote in the French presidential election. Photo: AFP

As an American, it’s difficult to understand the French political system or care about their elections. Sciences Po is abuzz with and integrated into the political fabric of France, so I had plenty of exposure to the political climate and 2012 speculation during my semester there. I recall memorable lectures discussing the election in several of my classes including Populism, Voting Behavior, and French language class. The DSK bombshell reverberated through the streets of Paris, and particularly at Sciences Po where Strauss-Khan used to teach. The very dull Francois Hollande hadn’t emerged as the Socialist Party candidate to replace DSK and potentially unseat Nicolas Sarkozy before I left France, so incumbent President Bling Bling and populist upstart Marine Le Pen were considered contenders.

The French presidency is a powerful office fashioned by Charles de Gaulle in 1958 when he installed himself as the head of the Fifth Republic. Yes, France has had four republics (and two declared empires) crumble before and their current constitution and incarnation of the presidency has existed for only 53 years. Presidential elections are held every five years (previously 7) and consist of two rounds: the first round featuring a ballot with all eligible candidates (10 of them in 2012), and a second-round run-off between the two top vote getters from round one. If in round one any candidate receives more than 50% of the vote, that person is elected president with no run-off.

The multi-party system ostensibly provides more choice and diversity of candidates and platforms, but comes with the built-in issues of coalition chaos and general party instability. Sure you get a party espousing centrism in addition to the two main polarized parties, but it comes bundled with a bunch of useless junk like Europe Ecologie -The Greens, New Anticapitalists, Workers’ Struggle (who’s nominee ran with the specious slogan “the only communist candidate”), and La Rouche Party. It’s a colorful cast of rascals and I would need to dedicate a separate blog post If we were to properly make fun of them all. Americans are familiar with the drawbacks of a two-party system, chiefly the perception that they collude to form elite monopoly jointly distracting and oppressing the people forever. A smathering of alternative parties arguing over who the true communists are isn’t going to fix that.

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I’m talking to you, hippie.

The far left cirques collected from 0.25-11% of the first round vote per party this year, the bottom six candidates, in aggregate, totaling votes sub-Marine. That is, falling short of the 18% garnered by National Front candidate Marine Le Pen. The National Front (FN), a populist party referred to as “far right” or “extreme right” by English-language media outlets, is characterized by its anti-immigration policies, Euro-skepticism, and “French First” motto. And there’s a lot of baggage in its history. Under Jean-Marie Le Pen, who made it to the run-off election in 2002, the FN was known as a fringe group of radicals, openly racist and anti-Semitic as Jean-Marie’s several court convictions for defamatory speech would show. Under daughter Marine’s leadership, the FN has rebranded itself as the party of French culture and national identity. Everything I read about her indicates a break with her father’s FN. Marine has expelled FN members for controversial and anti-Semitic comments and has reached out to French Jews, even meeting with the Israeli envoy at the UN last year. While Marine has distanced herself from her father’s extremism, she is routinely called a racist, anti-Semite, and worse by opponents.

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Because admiring your politically radical father is a real career killer. Unless he’s merely a drunk driving, deadbeat dad, polygamist lamenter of “problems facing our socialism.”

With high unemployment, the Euro crisis, and widespread immigration concerns, many French are frustrated with government, Sarkozy and his failed economic liberalization schemes in particular. Sarkozy heads the conservative UMP Party and his popularity has steadily declined since his election in 2007, receiving 27.8% of the vote and coming in second to Socialist Party candidate Francois Hollande’s first-round topping 28.63%. While Sarkozy has made it to the run-off election, he is in real danger of becoming the Fifth Republic’s first president to not win a second term, polling at 10 points behind Hollande. He only has a shot to retain the presidency if he can attract a high percentage from the “far right.” The anti-establishment, anti-elite, anti-globalization vote — in other words, anti-things Sarkozy does.


So Hollande, as boring as he looks, is likely to become president. To be bossed around by Merkel and with Marine breathing down his neck for five years. Bon chance, monsieur.

A word about the Left-Right continuum as it pertains to French politics. It doesn’t correspond very closely to American notions of the left and right. France favors a strong state across the board, there being no real notion of “small government” — French government is supposed to be big. Healthcare, transportation, auto-making, banking, and utilities are industries with strong if not full nationalization. The French center-left crowd isn’t so different than what an American might refer to as “European socialism,” while the right, instead of advocating smaller government, focuses on foreign policy, immigration, and smarter intervention in a highly nationalized economy. Sarkozy’s mass strike- and-protest-inducing pension reform law, raising the retirement age to 62 from 60 in the France of the 35-hour work week was atypical for a French conservative. His close relationship with the US is bemoaned by many French, including Marine Le Pen, universally pinned as to the right of Sarkozy.

Having completed an American political science degree before departing for France, and feeling that “socialism” is a toxic insult in American politics sure to bring harsh backlash to anyone who accuses the president of embracing this ideology, I was surprised that the French Socialist Party proudly proclaims itself socialist and is as mainstream in France as the Democrat party is in America. “Socialist” is invariably an insult on the American political scene and “European-style socialism,” of which France is a model, is decried with disdain and doomsaying. But “socialist” is merely a common party affiliation in France, not a pejorative, and several minor parties avow their communism. “Socialism” means roughly the same thing there as here (cradle-to-grave entitlements, high taxes, universal government healthcare), it’s just a different climate with different notions of left and right and different attitudes about socialism and communism.

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On the other hand, if I was French, I’d want my name to be Le Pen. That’s just an awesome name.

As Socialist Hollande and conservative Sarkozy face-off for the presidency, they have to recruit as many blocs of the people who didn’t vote for them in the first round as they can. All the left wing parties have congealed behind Hollande, greatly increasing his chances of winning. Because the FN is a right-wing party and Sarkozy is the conservative candidate, you might think virtually all of Le Pen’s 18% would go to Sarkozy as opposed to the Socialists in the final round. You might think. While Marine has hinted she would back Sarkozy in exchange for parliamentary concessions, she’s also given the impression that she will make no explicit endorsement for the decisive run-off. Many of her supporters despise Sarkozy and would rather stay home in protest than vote for him, allowing Hollande to trot to victory. They often “play coy” with pollsters making their projections unreliable. It would take about 80% of Marine’s supporters to carry Sarkozy to victory, but he doesn’t seem capable of attracting more than 60% of the FN vote without Le Pen’s express endorsement. And that’s not going to happen.

With only the clumsy terms “conservative” and “far right” available to us to describe Sarkozy and Le Pen, it’s difficult to imagine FN supporters willingly allowing the Socialiste to claim victory and five years of the presidency at a critical time for France and the world. Part of this can be explained by further exploration into the policies of Sarkozy’s conservative UMP and Marine’s decidedly right of center and, more accurately, populist positions. Sarkozy is a strong supporter of the European Union and has dedicated himself and France to the beleaguered Euro currency. Marine, a member of European Parliament, is a Euro-skeptic who would secede from the EU and return France to its erstwhile currency, the franc. Her programme prescribes withdrawing from the euro and using a devalued franc to boost the economy. Think China in terms of an exclusive and devalued currency as a factor of economic stimulus. Marine is also critical of Sarkozy’s close relationship with the United States and advocates a more independent France, determined to put up protectionist barriers and withdraw from NATO and if she came to power.


Who’s going to help you now Islamo-fascists freedom fighters?

EU, currency, and international relations spell great divides between Sarkozy and Le Pen, these issues holding great importance to a lot of her followers. On globalization and monetary policy, FN supporters see little Socialist candidate Hollande can do worse than Sarkozy. Marine’s supporters feel disenfranchised and forgotten by the elite political class, abandoning its own people to chum around in the gated global community. They aren’t necessarily xenophobic, they just don’t like paying taxes to support the healthcare and entitlements of illegal immigrants anymore than, you know, anyone. They want a state that includes them and they want real change. It’s easy to not vote for the so-called conservative because his establishment-friendly policies are not necessarily more similar to the FN in these areas and the populism of Marine has a more distant relationship to Sarkozy than “conservative” and “far right” labels might suggest. The one key FN policy Sarkozy might be willing to adopt is immigration.

Marine advocates cracking down on illegal immigration and severely cutting yearly allowances for legal immigration. She is painted as anti-Islam, known for denouncing public mosque funding and public prayer gatherings as encroaching into France’s laïcité or strict standards of a secular society. Criticized for what opponents considered comparisons between Muslims flooding the streets to pray and Nazi occupation, Marine is often called xenophobic and branded with the sins of her father, staunchly stating that France cannot afford entitlements for illegal immigrants, Sharia law is incompatible with France, and waves of unassimilating immigrants are eroding national identity. Sarkozy has shown willingness to shift right on immigration, joining Britain’s David Cameron and Germany’s Angela Merkel in declaring multiculturalism a failure. Accommodating populists on immigration and preserving French culture might attract some FN votes, but he has ruled out cabinet positions or assistance with legislative elections for FN candidates.

While there is certainly significant ideological distance between the FN and UMP, there is no denying Sarkozy needs Marine’s support if he is to have a hope at re-election. However, Le Pen may see Sarkozy’s demise as her long-term gain. A defeat by the long-tortured Socialists would throw the UMP into disarray, leaving the door for Marine and her charisma to become the new face of the French right wing. While Sarkozy warns that electing a Socialist will relegate France to the fate of Greece and Spain, Marine does not join him, perhaps calculating quietly. Addressing the debt and economic stewardship are not areas where anyone is proclaiming Hollande to be a leader, but if he becomes president and has to deal with these glaring issues, well, he’s not expected to succeed. By anyone. Including Marine. Who would, in five years, declare the failure of Hollande and position herself as a mainstream conservative to take the presidency. Of course this is speculation, but isn’t French politics fun?

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Well, maybe not for you right now.

Marine isn’t perfect and the origins of the National Front are surely unpalatable, its critics understandably skeptical of its recent makeover. Taking France off the euro and withdrawing from NATO are not by any means moderate moves, but Marine fully intends to do just this if she ever becomes president. Yet she has a charisma, an energy, an optimism that nearly one fifth of French voters noticed and voted for — voting for a strong France, not against Islam. She is called a racist, xenophobe, and fascist for addressing very real economic, security, and globalization threats. My French teacher at Sciences Po — a woman I admire for her shining intelligence, compassion, and enthusiasm for teaching — invoked Nazi comparisons and human flesh lampshades to disqualify my fascination with Marine. That’s effective. And it’s really a long shot that she would ever become president, assuredly. That might not be a bad thing. Yet she wields much power in determining the outcome of this year’s run-off, a kingmaker of sorts with Sarkozy’s fate in her hands.

Marine’s carved a sizable niche for herself and neutralized much of the stigma attached to her father’s National Front by abandoning his xenophobic rhetoric and focusing on France. The French presidential election has come down to Sarkozy vs. Hollande, but Le Pen has made sure she is a major player in French politics, shedding her dad’s idiotic ideas and legitimizing her party. She deserves credit for that. While a Hollande Socialist presidency is highly likely, Marine has shown poise and popularity and will be a political force in France for years to come. Challenging the establishment and treasuring her country. And at least for this election, capable of deciding whether the Fifth Republic denies the presidential incumbent a second term. She gets a bad rap and keeps fighting. Je vous admirez, Marine.

Wine Review: Grands Classiques Domaine de la Presidente – Cotes du Rhone 2010

Grands Classiques Cotes du Rhone 2010 Domaine de la Presidente ($8.60)


Cultivated on a limestone clay soil, this Cotes du Rhone is pleasant with aromas of black cherry and berry fruit, it will amaze you by its complexity. Pleasure above all else!
            -from the label

Was in the mood for something French tonight. A solid Cotes du Rhone did the trick.

cotesbouteiile
Classy looking bottle. A little suspicious that it lacks a French AOC label on the front, but it appears on the back.

A closer look.coteslabel
Photo effect courtesy of Le Instagram.

I enjoy that French wineries employ rustic-looking organic corks to seal their bottles.

cotescork
The “Mis en bouteille” stamp indicates that the wine is bottled on location where it was grown.

And here’s a glass poured and ready to drink. Santé.
cotesglass
There’s a fairly vibrant, visually attractive glow to it.

Cotes du Rhone was my favorite when I lived in Paris due to its affordability, pleasant texture, and affordability. At 2 euros a bottle for decent stuff (6-8euros for something suitable to take to a casual dinner party), it was my nightly cup of culture and occasional essay companion. It’s a perfect wine to enjoy while taking in the air sitting on a Parisian window sill, watching that beacon sweep over the sleeping city from atop the Eiffel Tower. I clearly have a bias in favor of the style of wine that enlivened so many of my nights in Paris, but it is a great entry-level red.

I first noticed when pouring a glass from this Domaine de la Presidente bottle a lively color to the wine. Factors like that give the psychological idea that it’s not too heavy and activates the taste buds emphatically. The plume of aromas I inhale from the bottle indicate an earthier, matured flavor.

I’m right about the flavor. The wine announces its arrival boldly. Sharper than a Cabernet, but more mellow than a typical Pinot Noir. It’s pleasant, but much more tart than sweet, the berries blooming from the middle as the wine rolls through. You can really feel Cotes du Rhone stain the tongue initially hitting with a focused pinch, then seeping into the tongue and finishing savory and robust. The texture follows a tapered progression starting with a narrow strike, then sweeping over the tongue with more and more body. This wine is definitely a lingerer and the aftertaste signs its signature with the “limestone clay soil” mentioned on the back label.

One thing about Cotes du Rhone — it packs a relatively high 13.5% alcohol punch. I can feel it as I’m typing here. You’ll have no problem pronouncing all the funny words on the label after a couple glasses. It’s not a sweet wine, but no comparatively priced Cabernet can match the texture. It’s not something to gulp down, but cradle it with the tongue and let it carry you through its layers. The flavor is full and enduring while the texture boasts a diverse cast of characters. Fact checking the claim that “it will amaze you by its complexity” — I’m going to verify this as truth. Domaine de la Presidente is an authentic French Cotes du Rhone and a great value at about eight and a half bucks. Enjoy! I recommend it as an earthier and more sophisticated (read: pretentious) alternative to a similarly priced cab.

Pros:Robust flavor and a parade of pleasing textures. Great as a picnic wine or to contrast with other reds at a wine party. A nice alternative to the monotonous cab.Affordable.

Cons: Less sweet, not as simple as other introductory reds. Limited availability of French Cotes du Rhone wines. High alcohol content may be prove a tad potent for some.

Final Word: Recommended. Nice complexity and delightful kaleidoscope of textures.

RIP Richard Descoings


Richard Descoings (June 23, 1958 - April 3, 2012)

Sciences Po director Richard Descoings passed away in New York at the age of 53. The cause of death is yet unclear and under investigation. Descoings had traveled from France to the United States in order to participate in the Global Colloquium of University Presidents conference on Tuesday at Columbia University. When he did not show up, he was searched for and his body was discovered in his hotel room.

Descoings served as the head of Sciences Po for 16 years, instituting a number of reforms including admissions reforms designed to sharply increase the number of underprivileged and international students. He also required students to spend their third year studying abroad and opened six new campuses throughout France, expanding Sciences Po’s presence nationally and globally.

In September 2011, The New York Times profiled Descoings and his transformation of Sciences Po from a “bastion of privilege” to an open and welcoming university dedicated to ethnic and economic diversity. Descoings described his admissions reforms as focusing on “intellectual potential, rather than just performance on exams,” saying of his administration and staff,
“Our challenge is mainly to persuade [underprivileged students] that they are good enough to be here.”

Descoings looked to bring in more students from the previously overlooked neighborhoods of France as well as from all over the world, increasing international student enrollment to 40% of the student body –

“With 40 percent of the student body now coming from outside of France, Mr. Descoings and the institution he heads have embraced a future that looks very different from the world he grew up in”

In my time at Sciences Po, I did not get the chance to meet Mr. Descoings, but I was stricken by his dignified and skillful speaking ability when I saw him address an auditorium full of people. His efforts to make Sciences Po a truly international university made my wonderful semester there possible, not only because my home university had only ever sent a handful of students to Sciences Po before, but also because of all the amazingly diverse students I was able to study with and befriend. Descoings’ policies resulted in a truly unique and authentic international experience for students from all over the world, and I thank him that I was allowed to participate. He opened up his university to people who would have otherwise never had the chance and congregated students and teachers from every corner of the earth. He imbued Sciences Po with a rich international character allowing me to study there and make many diverse and engaging friends along the way. Many of these friends are expressing shock and sadness at his loss, knowing he made our collective Sciences Po experience possible by making it possible for each of us.

We are the 40%

Merci beaucoup, Monsieur Descoings.

Mon station de Metro!

This blog’s URL is jordaninfrance and here we have Jourdain in France. As a Paris metro station. That’s the joke.

I only remember encountering this station once. And I didn’t get out here, just happened to pass it. It’s on the newfangled Line 11 which is the shortest line and a bit out of the way. Nice padded cars though.  I remember my thought process, wishing I had one of those sultry French girls beside me parce que:

Bonjour mademoiselle. Je m’appelle Jordan. Ca station est Jourdain et il est mon station. Vous seulement ajoutez u et i.

I am Jordan. This is my station, Jourdain. You only add U and I.

….


And then she pushes me out onto these tracks.

__

There’s probably a better way pick up line in there somewhere. Going to have to award myself the sac de douche du jour for this one.

If you’re a Jordan in France too, try it out! From Chatelet, take Line 11, direction: Mairie des Lilas.

Not pictured: Pretty girl to use corny line on.

Au revoir

Too Cliché? (Ain’t it Jay?)

We’re going to skate to the censored version:
http://c.brightcove.com/services/viewer/federated_f9?isVid=1
This is all sur l’internet today. Unavoidable.

Trips tend to have soundtracks. Personalized and permanently stitched to certain images from the journey. Come home, hear the song, instantly and involuntarily summon flashes across space and time from that place you visited. Sights and sounds hopelessly melted together.

That’s not me and Paris and this song. Didn’t know about it then, don’t think it had come out. What did come out when I was in Paris was Friday by Rebecca Black. And we won’t go into that, but I think we would have shot a video to Kanye and Jay-Z if it were all timed right.

As much fun as it would have been to have had this song while I was in Paris, it’s not like I wish it would have replaced or bumped out some other song that did overlay my stay. It was awesome the way it was. Tinkering with it with what-if’s after the fact isn’t going to change anything and probably isn’t healthy.

And whatever music I collect now will be available if I ever return.

Au revoir

Read More »

Pourquoi tu gaches ta vie?

Addicted to this song right now.

MikaElle Me Dit (elle-muh-dee) I can’t help but flip the sounds around and hear it “melody” — we’re meaning-creating creatures.

English translation of the lyrics found here. The gist is, she asks me why are you wasting your life?/She tells me to dance. It’s a great beat and a fun song. Enjoy!

Even though this song wasn’t released before I left Paris, it conjures up images of the city in my mind. Maybe it’s merely the French language and an upbeat tune. Strange how things that have only a superficial relationship to each other can blend together beyond conscious control. I picture Elle Me Dit superimposed over fun scenes all over Paris, as though maybe we actually were dancing along to it.

Elle me dit danse~

Read More »

For Foodies in Paris

I’d like to recommend a great blog with over 100 reviews of Parisian restaurants, bars, and cafés: I Talk Too Much My Mouth Hurts.

It’s written by a friend of mine who spent the entire year in Paris and became quite the epicure of French cuisine along the way.

So if you’re in Paris and want to eat stuff like this:

And this:

And this:

Then go check out her blog!

Now my wallet just never seemed full enough to go out to eat very often, but I recognize several locations throughout her pages, including my favorite bar, the cafe where Hemingway used to hang out, and the most famous macarons shop in Paris.


Where you can pay unspeakable amounts for this.

Bon apetit!

Et–

Au revoir

Merde Americans in Paris Say


Oh Hemingway. To be just like you in Paris is my dream.

Had to follow up my Midnight in Paris post with something about the best character in that film.

Au revoir

That’s what the present is — it’s a little unsatisfying because life is unsatisfying

This is the opening scene from Midnight in Paris. Woody Allen really skillfully captures the feel of the city. I love that he includes the rain.

Every time I watch this, it tugs a little firmer on those emotional gears I’ve worked hard to keep rusted tight.

I saw this film at the UGC Danton theatre shown at 2:26 — the subdued but palpable audience response to this unique experience was a sort of a knowing Parisian chuckle/scoff accompanied by a more pronounced kind of a collective visual gasp from the silhouettes of people sitting all around.

The theme of the movie is nostalgia, and its ability to cast a spell of illusion on us to where we can’t see very important things right in front of us. Having spent a remarkable 5 months in Paris — I had not yet found a permanent place to stay there exactly a year ago — the nostalgia has me firmly in its strato-cumulous pincers. I visit the city several nights a week in my dreams and wake up a bit dazed.


Stratocumulous. Pretentious much?

But as wonderful of a trip as it was, and for all its lasting threads in the form of friendships and memories and knowledge, it can’t hold an indefinite and unqualified status of superiority over today. Paris was yesterday. My tomorrow will be built elsewhere.

I imagine what it would be like to return. Then realize the impossibility of all my friends I met there, now scattered across the earth, reconverting to re-create my personal experience. It would be asinine to impress the shadows of people I enjoyed the city with upon any important person with whom I might return to the city someday. What’s done is done. Going back in time is not an option. Places aren’t just places. They’re the people you share them with. provided there be a next time, it will be a different city. To behave otherwise is to be lost. It’s as Owen Wilson’s character in the film tells his sultry French fling when he realizes he must return to the present:

If you stay here though, and this becomes your present then pretty soon you’ll start imagining another time was really your… You know, was really the golden time. Yeah, that’s what the present is. It’s a little unsatisfying because life’s a little unsatisfying.

If I ever return, it won’t be for the same amount of time, with the privileged shroud of a Sciences Po student, or with all the people who made it special last year. A different experience. What’s over is over. It’s still an experience I will never forget. That beacon sweeping over the city from atop the Eiffel Tower will continue tapping on the window of my subconscious late into the night.

Au revoir

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